• Billie Ruben

3D PRINTING SEX TOYS: a quick, easy and safe method!

Updated: 6 days ago


Ok so, sex toys! Admit it. You've thought about it. 😉

But it seems so complex!


You can't use a sex toy straight from the printer because the materials and nozzles aren't body safe, and even if they were, the layer lines are a breeding ground for bacteria. So traditionally you'd have to print a blank and smooth it (with loads of manual sanding and buffing), and then cast a silicone mould around it, add a mold release ($$$) and THEN (finally!) cast your actual sex toy.


Urgh! So much waste, expense and effort!


And there's so little info out there about the topic! What materials are safe/work? So many processes to master to get a good result, such expensive supplies to be dabbling with! Urgh! Not worth it, right?


I've been there! I feel you! BUT! :D I feel like a friggin genius right now because I've worked out a super quick, super easy SAFE way to go from print to sex toy in about an hour, with very little effort.


And it's all to a really simple trick utilising humble bee's wax to smooth the mold/negate flashing act as a mould release.😊

🐝


You just print the mould/negative, pour in beeswax to smooth the mould (and pour it out), and cast your final toy straight into it! There's almost no waste, it's extremely low effort and it needs very few supplies, so it's cheap too!



This method is perfect if you want to make custom one-offs, like lots of different/interesting toys. It's also great for beginners! If you've never casted (or done 'organic' digital sculpting) this is the perfect beginner project! I recommend making a day of it, with a bed-fellow or friend! Giggles and fun will be had by all (including, if our experience holds true, the silicone shop owner! 😊😁🤣)



INSTRUCTIONS


1: Designing the toy

Think about what you enjoy in toys you have already, what you might like to try and how you will use it. Think about size and take reference dimensions from toys you have already.


Remember that we're smoothing it by coating it with wax, and although the coating is very thin, super fine details will be rounded out, and this is a good thing! You don't want little crevasses that become a breeding ground for bacteria. So don't make anything too detailed.


If you want to make something for anal play be sure to have a flared base so it doesn't get sucked in and lost when used!



2: 3D modelling


You can make your toy as organic or structured as you like. If you want very regular structured shapes you might like to use TinkerCad or Fusion 360 (both free) to make your model. If you want to do with a more traditional/organic look you might want to try soft/organic modeling! Don't worry if never done it before, a fantasy dong is the perfect first project!


The software I most recommend to newbies is SculptGL, because it's easy to use and runs on anything with internet. If you want to work locally you can also use Meshmixer which I have a bunch of tutorials for.


For more software options see my poster, and the table linked therein.


If all that sounds too hard I also have a file of the dildo pictured here available for those who support me on patreon.



3: Turning your model into a mould


You won't be printing your actual toy, you'll be printing the mould around it.

To turn your model into a mould recommend using 3D Builder if you're on windows, or mesh mixer if not.


You will want to cut your toy out of a larger shape like a cylinder, cut that cylinder into half (so you have two sides), then add registration nobs. These are used to help align the mould. I used little pyramids with their tops chopped off and rotated to stick out of and into the sides of the mould where the mould halves meet. Remember when making these that you need to add clearance between fitted parts. Meaning the holes should be slightly larger than the 'pegs'. Usually 0.3mm on each side will be good for most printers.


I also added a bottom panel to help protect against wax drips and also protect the mould from coming apart when I tapped it later to help remove bubbles.


You may also wish to add a keyhole/ wedge-shaped cutout to the sides where they join so you can wedge a flat screw driver in there to help break mould.






4: Printing

I printed my moulds with the round sides together so if there was any stringing it would be on the outside of the mould where it wouldn't matter. I used quite a large layer height (0.25), knowing the wax would smooth it later, and 20% infill and 2 walls.








5: Smoothing with wax

Now for the magic part! Grab enough beex wax to fill your mould (preferably, though you might be able to get away with less if need be). Place your wax into a sturdy, heatproof container and place it it in a pot of water on your stovetop. Bring the water to the boil, to melt the wax. Doing it this way will ensure your wax never gets over 100°C and thus won't be too hot for the mold and won't be lost to evaporation while you melt it. You can get a volume estimate for your toy by slicing it (not the mold) in Chitubox.

Parafin wax doesn't work, it inhibits curing. I've yet to see anyone try soy wax, but it may work. Steer clear of anything with perfume/colour (e.g a finished candle), lest the additions inhibit the silicone curing or any bits of perfume absorbed by the silicone act as an irritant when the toy is in use. I really do recommend beeswax though. It has infinite uses for most makers, no matter your interests, so it's good stuff to have on hand, and you will be able to reuse almost all of it after this project (you'll only lose a couple of mililitres in this process to the coating we're making).


As your wax is melting, prepare your mould. Tape up the seam lines and base, just in case of leaks. I didn't have any leaks, even under the tape, but your results may vary depending on your print settings so it's a good idea.


Now, pour your melted wax quickly into the mould and back out again, holding the mould upside down to let it drain back into the melting container until the wax sets.


Reheat the wax (it gets cool and viscous fast and this will cause drips (as you can see on mine!) and then repeat: pour wax into the mould and dump it out/ let the excess drain.


The inside of your mould should now be coated in a thin layer of wax which smoothes out the layer lines, and fills in the gaps where the mould meets so you won't have any flashing/ ugly scars. If you can still see layer lines, repeat the pour and dump again (but you shouldn't need to)


6: Silicone

Now you can cast your toy! You will want to use body-safe silicone. I used Barnes Platsil which is made for prosthesis, is translucent, and comes in varying hardnesses. I liked GEL-10 which I feel is comparable to my Bad Dragon 'soft' toy. Speaking of Bad Dragon, I have it on good Authority that they use Smooth On Dragon Skin for their toys, which may be more available in other countries, though I've received reports that it doesn't like the beeswax. you might be able to try the 'Clone a Willy' kits, they seem to be pretty widely available.


You will want to buy a bit more silicone than you truly need as you will lose a bit to the cups. Again, you can check the volume of your toy by slicing it in Chitubox. It's worth explaining your goals to the experts at the shop so they can help you decide what you need. (Obviously do this in a respectful way and use your best judgement to ensure you're not overstepping someone's boundaries). You also likely will want some pretty colours! Generally powdered pigments work well in silicone, but again, ask your shop or manufacturer for specifics relating to the product you're using. For this one I used Pearl Ex 680 Duo Red/Blue

A vacuum and pressure pot is ideal for this step, to remove bubbles, but I didn't use them for this one. Internal bubbles are ok, but you want to avoid surface ones as these can trap moisture/grow bacteria.


To cast, measure your two parts of silicone into two seperate disposable cups (by weight or by volume depending on manufacturer: see the instructions specific to your product).


Mix your pigment into one of the cups remembering it will be halved in intensity when you mix it with the other part. Stir in one direction only to help reduce bubbles.


Pour both cups into a new cup (to ensure you're losing the same amount to each cup) and mix it up thoroughly, and pour it into your mould. Pouring from a great height generally reduces bubbles. Your working time will be specific to your product, check the instructions and be sure to pour it in with plenty of time left.


Now tap the mould against a hard surface to work the bubbles up and out the top of the mould and set it aside to cure (time will vary depending on product).



7. Breaking the mould open

Once it's cured, slip strong knife or steel ruler into the cracks between the mould halves and twist it to open, work your way down from the open top to the base, until you can pull two sides apart.



8: Trimming bottom

You can trim off any daggy bits at the base of the toy with some sharp scissors.



9.Bask in the glory of you beautiful new toy!

Stare lovingly at it.

Walk around the house waggling it at nothing in particular!

Carry it around with you from room to room so you can gaze in awe at its beauty.

Waggle it at haters on the internet!


Enjoy!



If you get stuck

I'm more than happy to help you over on my discord I also set up a specific server for sexy 3D prints: 3D Printing After Dark (check out the logo, I'm ridiculously proud of it 🤣)

Experiment!

You can try lots of different colours and even swirl different ones together, or layer them up (hello rainbow dildos?), so experiment and have fun! :)


You also can experiment with including things into it. I want to add LEDs and a heater somehow in future!


You can also play with varying thickness. Maybe make the base firm and the tip soft. Or a firm core and soft outer!

And of course you can play with all sorts of fun shapes and models. :)


Whatever you do, enjoy! And please please please, tag me if you post it online! I'd truly love to see! (Please don't send unsolicited pics of them in use... obviously). If you like my work, please support me on Patreon.


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